We succeeded in paddling Lough Gowna, the upper R. Erne, and Lough Oughter between May 1st and 3rd, a great trip, and in good weather. The rain came at night,which was fine. The only slight shock was that, after I arrived in the area on the Thursday, and went to look at both parking places, and also the bridges over the Erne (it is very small!), by Friday the torrential rian of the Thursday night had helped the loughs and river to rise greatly.
We left Tony’s car at Belturbet , and the river was racing ,with creamy waves over a brown river, between the bridge arches and over the small weir. The cruiser pontoons below the bridge were awash, and even getting out above the bridge seemed a problem. Ah well, we said, the river will drop (no, it didn’t!).
I won’t go into great detail on the trip - it will all be in the book, but apart from the fishermen (all friendly on the loughs), I don’t think we saw anybody on the land for three days. The Erne was also an interesting challenge - suffice to say that we came across problems at all four of the white water hazards on the river, weirs so high that the tails went high into the trees, and were unshootable for that reason, a l ng portage at Carraclevin Weir and bridge, al ot of branch sawing (the river was completely blocked in two places) - but great fun!
Lough Oughter lives up to its reputation as a lovely spot, but camp sites were difficult due to the height of the water. We didn’t get lost - the answer being the OS map, and reading it! The passage around Inishmore at the north end (we took the narrow, easterly one) was not narrow, but like a lough.
And finally, yes ,we did land OK at Belturbet - open canoes can break out fine, even when heavily loaded.
What I can muse on is the contrast between the Erne system once over the border, all facilities, good maps, parking, campsites etc, and in the south, well…..nothing much, although the wildness is attractive.
The whole Erne river and lough system is a fabulous, at least 7 days-worth of paddling, and one of the best trips in Europe. Would be good to see it all linked up, with a bit more help especially with vehicle parking and campsites? I ask the question, not criticise!
We did other stuff as well, looking, photographing, and spending time down near Arklow at Tony’s new place. The Boyne is in as a great paddle, the Meath Blackwater is too small. The lakes in the midlands add up to a great holiday centre for paddling.Only a very few routes left now! We should be on schedule to finish the book by about the end of August.
Also, on to other issues. An e-mail has gone to Irish governemnt agencies to ask of their definitive statement about acces to water in Ireland. The replies should be interesting
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